Tablet Magazine

The Birth of a New Passover Breakfast Tradition

Dreading a week of unhappy mornings? This chametz-free version of a savory strata will open your eyes to a new taste of the holiday.

When I converted to Judaism, I didn’t realize how much more I would have to cook. But when my first Rosh Hashanah rolled around about a month after my Beit Din, I suddenly found myself on the hook for hosting a 10-person dinner party (though this was admittedly my fault, having invited nine people over for the holiday dinner). That’s the thing about conversion: Since you don’t have Jewish family, you can’t plan on going to your parents’ or grandparents’ or cousins’ house for holidays. If you want to have a holiday meal, more than likely it’s going to be you cooking and hosting. Without family recipes to fall back on, I was a bit lost on how to make these meals special. When there’s a million and one brisket recipes in the world, how do you pick just one? Wrestling with this, I started a miniseries on the Tablet podcast Unorthodox, called Cook Like a Jew. The concept was straightforward: I would have Jews in my orbit teach me their Jewish recipes, which would then become my own. It was a way to connect to my Judaism outside of shul and to engage in building my own Jewish community. L’dor v’dor—“from generation to generation”—has been a tricky concept for me. For me, there is no literal l’dor; I am not genetically related to the generations of Jews that came before me. When I pray the Amidah, I always feel a little uncomfortable saying “eloheinu v’elohei avoteinu,” or “Our God and God of our ancestors,” because my God is not, in fact, the God of my ancestors. But cooking has been a way for me to feel connected to the web of Jewish ancestry. I don’t have my grandma’s brisket recipe, but I do have Alison Roman’s. I don’t have my dad’s challah recipe, but I do have Molly Yeh’s. In an essay for The New Yorker about her “cookbook crushes,” Norah Ephron (another intellectual ancestor of mine) writes: “I cooked every recipe in Michael Field’s book, and at least half the recipes in the first Julia [Child book], and as I cooked I had imaginary conversations with them both.” I read this essay years ago but still think about it regularly because Ephron, as per usual, strikes the nail on the head. It’s corny, but I really do feel like every cook or writer whose recipe I make is a sort of ancestor—if not literally, then culinarily. ...

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This Week’s Recipe

Za’atar Strata With Matzo, Caramelized Leeks, and Feta

Dreading a week of unhappy mornings? This chametz-free version of a savory strata will open your eyes to a new taste of the Passover holiday.

Explore all our recipes here.

10 Plagues Cocktails

We are proud to present this year’s list of Passover cocktails for the Ten Plagues, created by Pam Wiznitzer.

L’chaim!

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In The Kitchen With Joan Nathan

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Joan Knows Best

Everyone says their mom is the best cook, but when your mom is Joan Nathan, cooking looks a little bit different. Join Joan Nathan and her son, David Henry Gerson, for a video series covering Joan’s favorite Shabbat dinner recipes with a seasonal twist.

Joan Nathan is Tablet Magazine’s food columnist and the author of 10 cookbooks including King Solomon’s Table: a Culinary Exploration of Jewish Cooking from Around the World.

Perfect Pita

Joan Knows Best: The best way to make the ancient bread in your modern kitchen—thanks to a tip from chef Michael Solomonov

Shake Up Brunch With Shakshuka

Joan Knows Best: The best way to make this popular tomato-and-egg dish—with some help from Israeli chef Erez Komarovsky

The Pleasure of Pletzel

Joan Knows Best: The best way to make this Eastern European flatbread—with some advice from food writer and radio host Arthur Schwartz

Alon Shaya Expands to Las Vegas

With established restaurants in Louisiana and Denver, Chef Alon Shaya is now expanding to Nevada. Safta 1964 is the prequel to Chef Alon Shaya’s Michelin-recognized Safta restaurant (located in Denver). It debuts April 4 as a culinary residency at Wynn Las Vegas.

Read here for Tablet’s stories by, and about Chef Alon Shaya.

100 Foods and Beyond

Check out Tablet’s book The 100 Most Jewish Foods: A Highly Debatable List, and learn the stories behind iconic Jewish dishes. Argue with your friends about what we left out. And if you get hungry, we’ve included 60 recipes, too. And then there’s more...

Play the Jewish Foods Memory Game with your kids. Match up doubles of chicken soup, or borscht, or kreplach, and work up their appetite in the process.

Or try the 500-piece 100 Foods circular puzzle, and set the perfect table filled with your favorite Jewish foods.

Or check out this sticker book, featuring the tastiest items from 100 Most Jewish Foods. Put your favorite stickers on your laptop, your notebook, or your refrigerator.

You can buy all the merchandise, plus The Newish Jewish Encyclopedia, edited by the hosts of Tablet’s Unorthodox podcast, by clicking here.

A Plant-Based Quandary

Muslims, Jews, and Catholics wrestle with the religious implications of fake meat

PLNT Burger is a restaurant that offers plant-based alternatives to all-American favorites like burgers and shakes—all 100% kosher and halal. The first restaurant opened in Silver Spring, Maryland, 2019, and has expanded to 14 locations spanning from northern Virginia to Boston. The overarching philosophy, said co-founder Seth Goldman, is an effort to make food accessible to the widest possible cross section of people, regardless of their dietary choices—whether religious, medical, or ethical in nature. Despite some quibbles and caveats, for people of many faiths, plant-based meat and dairy substitutes complement their practices around food and diet by driving intentionality, to change the world by making what his wife and co-founder, Julie Farkas, calls “little changes, every day.” Veganism and vegetarianism are increasingly accepted by the American mainstream, whether it’s out of concern for the environment and animals, or for their own health, and people of various faith traditions with dietary restrictions are embracing the trend. While plant-based meat substitutes mean Jews, Muslims, and even some Christians might now enjoy a guilt-free cheeseburger or slice of (mushroom) bacon, there are those who see such alternatives as potentially problematic workarounds. Other religions have their sanctioned alternatives to off-limit substances—coffee substitutes for Latter-day Saints, capybara instead of fish on Fridays for Catholics in Latin America—but plant-based meat can present something of a different challenge for many religious traditions: What if it’s too close to the real thing? When Goldman and Farkas sat down with me at one of their New York City restaurants over a chocolate oat milkshake, they told me about the “very Jewish ethos” behind their vegan restaurant, where ethically sourced menu options bring vegans, eco-warriors, and rabbis together. And PLNT Burger definitely feels inclusive. Goldman and Farkas are greeted warmly by the staff when they arrive at the restaurant, but it’s almost possible to miss because the staff greets everyone warmly. Cheerful young men behind the counter coach me through the byzantine customization options as I place my order on the touch-screen menu (the ability to individualize is part of the founders’ philosophy of being all things to all people). I’m there at the tail end of the lunch rush, but their energy and enthusiasm don’t seem to have flagged. “We get people from all over,” I hear a server remark over the multilingual conversational din. “Yeah, no meat!” he responds to another customer inquiry. “Tastes just like the real thing!” ...

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A lot of Jewish food’s appeal, I have found, has more to do with fond memories of growing up than the food itself. Your early sensations are the ones that stay with you. You similarly always remember your first kiss. Technically speaking it probably wasn’t your best kiss, but it is the one that gave you the taste.

How do you hummus?

With the original recipe dating all the back to the 13th century, hummus has become quite possibly the most popular middle eastern dish of our time.

It’s been called a peacemaker, and has been the subject of lots of controversy. Whether it’s your entire meal, or a dip for your vegetables, there are so many opinions, and stories to share about our delectible dish.

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