Your email is not valid
Recipient's email is not valid
Submit Close

Your email has been sent.

Click here to send another

thescroll_header

The Best Pierogi in Warsaw

An adventure in dumpling consumption

Print Email
Pierogi tasting.(Abigail Miller)

“This place has the best pierogi in Warsaw,” my colleague said over dinner, conspiratorially handing me a flyer for Pierogarnia na Bednarskiej. The shiny flyer featured a blurry map placing this pierogi palace just off Skwar Hoovera, or Hoover Square (the former president was a honorary citizen of Warsaw). Listed on the other side were more than a dozen different varieties of the traditional Polish dumpling, from classics like the ruskie (potato and cheese) and kapusta (cabbage) to kinds I’d never even heard of.

The next day I was on my way to Hoover Square, my stomach growling and my mouth watering. I crossed the square and headed down ul. Bednarska, my pace quickening as a massive, vertical sign reading ‘Pierogi’ appeared about halfway down the street. The restaurant’s front room was filled with a mix of mostly local diners and a few eager-eyed tourists.

I ordered the ruskie, kapusta, and something called the babuni, meaning grandma, eliciting a confused look from the cashier—as Wikipedia puts it, “the singular form pieróg is rarely used, as a typical serving consists of several pierogi,” and these came with seven each—and a bill for 40.50 złoty, or roughly $12.86.

With my change came a receipt and a plastic numbered ticket which would turn out to be unnecessary. The late lunch crowd had thinned enough that the cashier called out to us in English when the pierogi-laden tray emerged from the kitchen. Each plate was decorated sparingly, with two cucumber slices and one tomato placed alongside the massive pierogis.

The ruskie was as filling as you’d imagine a dumpling stuffed with potato, cheese, and onion would be. The doughy shell held its starchy contents well, though it may have been too much of a good thing—it was the one plate that wasn’t scraped clean by the end of the meal. The kapusta held its own, the cabbage and mushrooms creating a thick, meaty texture. But the grandma was the surprise hit: ground meat (don’t tell me what kind, please) packed into a delicious carb blanket, topped with fried onions that added a kick of crunchy flavor.

Now, time for a nap.

Print Email

COMMENTING CHARGES
Daily rate: $2
Monthly rate: $18
Yearly rate: $180

WAIT, WHY DO I HAVE TO PAY TO COMMENT?
Tablet is committed to bringing you the best, smartest, most enlightening and entertaining reporting and writing on Jewish life, all free of charge. We take pride in our community of readers, and are thrilled that you choose to engage with us in a way that is both thoughtful and thought-provoking. But the Internet, for all of its wonders, poses challenges to civilized and constructive discussion, allowing vocal—and, often, anonymous—minorities to drag it down with invective (and worse). Starting today, then, we are asking people who'd like to post comments on the site to pay a nominal fee—less a paywall than a gesture of your own commitment to the cause of great conversation. All proceeds go to helping us bring you the ambitious journalism that brought you here in the first place.

I NEED TO BE HEARD! BUT I DONT WANT TO PAY.
Readers can still interact with us free of charge via Facebook, Twitter, and our other social media channels, or write to us at letters@tabletmag.com. Each week, we’ll select the best letters and publish them in a new letters to the editor feature on the Scroll.

We hope this new largely symbolic measure will help us create a more pleasant and cultivated environment for all of our readers, and, as always, we thank you deeply for your support.

2000

Your comment may be no longer than 2,000 characters, approximately 400 words. HTML tags are not permitted, nor are more than two URLs per comment. We reserve the right to delete inappropriate comments.

Thank You!

Thank you for subscribing to the Tablet Magazine Daily Digest.
Please tell us about you.

The Best Pierogi in Warsaw

An adventure in dumpling consumption

More on Tablet:

11 Non-Jewish Celebrities—and 2 Jewish Ones—Show Off Their Hebrew Tattoos

By Marjorie Ingall — You don’t have to be Jewish to sport Hebrew ink. But some of these stars should have thought twice before going under the needle.