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King of Schmaltz

Today on Tablet, Leah Koenig on Michael Ruhlman and schmaltz

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Rendering Schmaltz(Donna Ruhlman)

Today on Tablet, Leah Koenig reports on the Michael Ruhlman, a non-Jew, who has written a food-lover’s paean to cooking with schmaltz.

From a recipe-developing perspective, Ruhlman’s outsider status ironically gave him a creative edge. Yes, The Book of Schmaltz includes familiar dishes like kishke, matzoh balls, and chopped liver. (Ruhlman consulted extensively with Baron while testing these recipes.) But the book’s 20 recipes elevate their subject beyond standard Ashkenazi repertoire and bring schmaltz down a less-worn path: turning brioche dough savory (“schmaltz makes fabulous brioche,” Ruhlman said), flavoring fluffy Parisienne gnocchi, or rendering extra-crispy roasted potatoes. The book’s digital features, like the step-by-step photographs and a video clip featuring Baron, make schmaltz accessible and appealing to Jewish and non-Jewish cooks alike.

There are some pretty impressive recipes included as well. Check it out here.

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King of Schmaltz

Today on Tablet, Leah Koenig on Michael Ruhlman and schmaltz

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