Michael Ruhlman admits that it takes a certain amount of chutzpah for a non-Jew to tackle a topic like schmaltz—the onion-scented rendered chicken fat that powers traditional Ashkenazi Jewish cuisine. But that is exactly what the food writer did in The Book of Schmaltz: A Love Song to a Forgotten Fat, a digital cookbook he published for the iPad last month with his wife, photographer Donna Turner Ruhlman.
Parisienne Gnocchi
June 21, 2021
Ingredients
For the gnocchi
- 1cup chicken stock or water
- ½cup schmaltz, plus more for tossing
- 1teaspoon kosher salt
- 1cup all-purpose flour
- 4to 5 large eggs
- ¼cup minced fresh soft herbs (parsley, chives, tarragon etc.)
For spinach, onion and egg:
- 2tablespoons schmaltz, or more as needed
- 1Spanish onion, halved crosswise and thinly sliced
- 1 ½pounds fresh spinach, stems removed
- 4large eggs
- Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
Yield: Serves 4
Preparation
To make the Parisienne Gnocchi
- Step 1
Make the gnocchi: Combine the stock, 1/2 cup of schmaltz, and kosher salt in a medium saucepan over high heat. When the liquid reaches a simmer, lower heat to medium and add the flour. Whisk mixture continuously until all the water has been absorbed and a uniform paste has formed. Continue to cook, stirring, for another minute or two, then set the pot aside to cool for 5 minutes.
- Step 2
Once cooled slightly, crack 1 egg into the pan and quickly stir it to combine (it will look slick at first). Repeat with the remaining eggs (4 is standard, but 5 will make it richer), then stir in the herbs.
- Step 3
Bring a large pot of water to a boil. Spoon the gnocchi dough into a large zipper-top plastic bag. Snip 1/2 inch off one corner of the bag and pipe the dough into the simmering water, snipping the gnocchi off at 1 1/2-inch lengths. When they float to the surface, transfer to a plate lined with a paper towels. Repeat with the remaining dough. Set the gnocchi aside and toss them with a little schmaltz to prevent them from sticking together. At this point, gnocchi can be chilled and frozen until you are ready to use them.
- Step 4
To finish the dish: Bring a pot of water to a simmer for the eggs. Meanwhile, in a large sauté pan, melt the 2 tablespoons of schmaltz over medium heat. Add onion and sauté until lightly browned. Add the cooked gnocchi to the pan, along with more schmaltz if needed, and cook until golden brown, 4-5 minutes. Add spinach and stir to wilt. Season with salt and pepper and remove from heat.
- Step 5
Crack the 4 eggs into the simmering water and reduce the heat to low. The eggs are poached when the white has completely solidified and the yolk is still fluid. Divide the gnocchi and spinach mixture among 4 warm plates, and top each with a poached egg and more salt and pepper to taste.