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Brisket Power

Searching for ways to attract young Jews, a Boston group asked some chefs to reinvent traditional Jewish dishes. Never underestimate the ability of good food to attract a crowd.

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Michael Scelfo’s caraway and matzoh cake with smoked fish. (Maria Arabbo)

In the late 19th and early 20th century, middle-class Jewish communities in southern Germany, and their immigrant counterparts in the United States, would hold balls for the young adults several times a year. These parties were social events, but they were also occasions for the young people to meet potential mates—and, in no small part, to reconfirm their Judaism. These highly anticipated events were the predecessors of JDate.

Today, one of the challenges that professionals within the Jewish world say they face is creating interesting events during which young people can connect and explore Judaism. Food is a wonderful vehicle to do just that; never underestimate the power of a homemade cheesecake to attract a crowd. As one community organizer from the Centre Bernard Lazare in Paris told me: “People listen to lecturers more attentively if they know a little food will be served.”

The New Center for Arts and Culture in Boston, a Jewish nonprofit that plans events at venues around the city, is one organization that has embraced the power of food. Recently I spoke at “Beyond Bubbie’s Kitchen,” an event for Prism, the Center’s program that targets people in their 20s and 30s.

Prism invited 15 well-known chefs from the Boston area, many not Jewish, and asked them to reinvent a traditional Jewish dish. Chefs like a challenge, and this certainly was one. They set up stations in an event space at Moakley Courthouse in South Boston, serving food that night to about 300 people. Prism produced a pamphlet for attendees that traced the history of the traditional dishes and included the chefs’ thoughts on their reinterpretations. The event was inspired, in part, by the increasing popularity of Jewish food in mainstream American cuisine, says Lynne Krasker, Prism’s director: “It is important to understand why we eat Jewish foods at certain times and to understand their significance within culture and society,” she said. “One of the reasons we chose non-Jewish chefs was to see how they perceived Jewish food.”

Japanese-born Ting Yen, chef at Oishii in Chestnut Hill, prepared a yam tempura maki appetizer, which he said was inspired by the carrots and yams he often found in side dishes prepared by his Jewish chef friends. His dish resembled a modernized, reinvented, Japanese version of carrot tsimmes.

Steven Brand of Cambridge’s Upstairs on the Square chose a braised lamb knish, a Sephardic take on an Ashkenazic classic. “I love to eat knishes,” he wrote in the Prism handout, “but I thought it might be fun to update the traditional style and recipe to make it more interesting.”

Michael Madden, of the Asian-inspired restaurant Om, also in Cambridge, made a cold-smoked cherry-wood salmon with a potato apple galette. “It was a pleasure to get away from Asian food for a change,” he told me.

To me, the most creative and tasty of these appetizers was a caraway and matzoh cake with Arctic char, Vermont fromage, and micro-greens prepared by Michael Scelfo, chef at Russell House Tavern. He told me he is a big fan of Jewish food, and he wanted to create a version of a matzoh cake “using local and sustainable ingredients—matzoh, smoked fish, caraway, and cream cheese. The flavors are traditional but the presentation is modern.”

For the main course, Julio de Haro from Estragon took an unusual approach to brisket, the zelig of the food world. Spanish-born de Haro braised his brisket in pomegranate juice and served it topped with a confit of onions. “Pomegranate is integral to southern Spanish cuisine,” he said. “We wanted to incorporate it somehow. Granada happens to be the Spanish word for pomegranate”—and, of course, there was a large Jewish population in Granada until the Inquisition.

Also on the menu that night: kasha varnishkes with real gribenes, cracklings made of poultry skin; rolled pasta made of rye; duck pastrami; poppyseed oreo cookies; a chocolate tamale that was a play on cheese blintzes; and an extraordinary croquembouche made of a supple honey caramel and choux pastry.

This last dessert, inspired by teiglach, was my favorite. Teiglach, a traditional Lithuanian dessert served on holidays, is made out of dough that’s boiled and covered in honey, but the result is often hard and unwieldy. The reinvented dessert was prepared by Siberian-born pastry chef Diana Kudajarova, from the restaurant Journeyman in Somerville, and her Singaporean husband and business partner, Tse Wei Lim. “We picked teiglach having never tasted it,” Tse wrote, “because we loved its connection with family, community, and celebration. Picking bits of honey-covered dough out of a giant pile sounded like great fun to us. But the experience of eating actual teiglach, once we made it, didn’t quite live up to the potential.” So they used cream puffs instead and used honey to bind them together. The result was delicate, honey-scented, and delicious. I found a version of teiglach that I actually like—and maybe even a way to reconnect with my own Judaism!

Caraway & Matzoh Cake With Smoked Fish, Fromage Blanc, & Micro Greens

Adapted from Michael Scelfo

2 cups matzoh meal

1 tablespoon baking powder

1 tablespoon ground caraway seed

4 tablespoons sliced chives

1 teaspoon kosher salt

1 teaspoon ground black pepper

3 egg yolks

3/4 cup whole milk or as needed

4 tablespoons olive oil

8 ounces fromage blanc or sour cream

4 ounces shredded smoked char, salmon, or smoked fish of your choice

A handful of micro greens

1. Whisk together the matzoh meal, baking powder, caraway seed, salt, and pepper in a small bowl. In a separate bowl mix the eggs, milk, and 3 tablespoons of the chives. Slowly add the wet ingredients to the dry, mixing with a whisk, trying to keep the batter smooth and adding additional milk if needed. The batter should be just thick enough to drop off a spoon.

2. In a medium nonstick frying pan, heat 3 tablespoons of the olive oil over medium heat. Add spoonfuls of batter and cook until golden on each side, spreading them to about 2 inches in diameter, and about ¼ inch thick. Drain on a paper towel.

3. Gently mix the fromage blanc or sour cream with the smoked fish. Drop a dollop of the mixture onto each cake and serve at room temperature. Garnish with the remaining tablespoons of chives, micro greens, and a drizzle of olive oil.

Yield: 10 to 12 servings

Brisket Braised in Pomegranate Juice

Adapted from Julio de Haro

One 4 ½-pound brisket

Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste

2 tablespoons olive oil

2 medium onions, peeled and coarsely chopped

2 leeks, cleaned, and chopped, using the white and light green only

6 cloves garlic, crushed

2 large carrots, peeled and coarsely chopped

1 celery stalk, peeled and coarsely chopped

2 ½ to 3 cups pomegranate juice

3 sprigs fresh thyme

2 sprigs fresh rosemary

2 bay leaves

1. Season the brisket with salt and pepper. Heat 2 tablespoons of the oil in a heavy pan or Dutch oven, brown the brisket on all sides, and set aside.

2. Preheat the oven to 325 degrees. Add the onions and leeks in the pan in which you browned the brisket, and cook until soft. Add the garlic, carrots and the celery. Continue cooking for about 10 minutes, stirring occasionally.

3. Add 1 1/2 cups of the pomegranate juice to the pan and bring the mixture to the boil, making sure to scrape the bottom of the pan as you stir. Add another cup of pomegranate juice, the thyme, rosemary and bay leaves to the pan and allow to simmer. Season to taste with salt and pepper.

4. Return the brisket to the pan, fat-side up, spooning the vegetables and juices over the meat. Cover the pan tightly (use foil if the pan doesn’t have a lid), and braise the brisket in the oven, basting every half hour or so until the meat is tender, for about 3 hours.

5. Allow the brisket to rest before slicing and serving. (I leave it overnight in the refrigerator. The next day I cut it thin, against the grain, on the bias.) Lay the brisket over the onions and leeks and the gravy, reheat, and serve with the onion confit (see below.)

Yield: about 8 servings

Onion Confit

3 large onions, peeled and cut in slivers

4 tablespoons vegetable oil

Salt and pepper to taste

1 cup red wine

1 cup chicken broth

1. Sauté the onions in the oil for about 10 to 15 minutes or until they start to turn golden.

2. Add salt and pepper to taste, the sugar, the wine, and the chicken broth. Cook them, uncovered, for another 10 minutes or until the onions are very soft. Taste, adding more sugar or salt, if necessary, and serve.

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Why not print all of the mentioned recipes?

Why not leave well enough alone. If it ain’t broke……………

I really wanted to print the teiglach recipe but thought I would prefer to watch them and do an entire article on teiglach…stay tuned.
Joan Nathan

any updating of traditional recipes is an opportunity to make something a little more modern with tweaked flavors and health factors (read FAT). What a great way to gather young Jews together. Please keep us informed.

I have made brisket nine zillion times and each time I try a new and improved version. My searing of the brisket starts with alittle olive oil, and 2-3 cloves of fresh garlic…and smear just ketchup on both sides of the meat..add onion for flavor. A large turkey bag will do and place the seared brisket and fixins in the bag, add cut up fresh apples, cranberries and raisons..a few prunes and two envelopes of dried brown gravy after mixed with water , 3-4 peeled potatoes(cut up) baby carrots and you’re good to go. Make sure you put 3-4 slits in bag and you are good to go. I NEVER HAVE ANY LEFT. I serve this with homemade coleslaw and my special kugel.

“cold-smoked cherry-wood salmon with a potato apple galette” – Yum! Please share the recipe with your readers.

Loved the article. Other cities should host this type of event.

Susie Morgenstern says:

Joan, do you know how to say brisket in French ? I’ve been looking for brisket for 44 years in Nice !
Love and thanks,
Susie

Susie,
How are you? There really is no cut llike our brisket. Since the French cut around the muscles, so this paleron is much smaller than the hefter American briskets. I just got back from Paris. Glad you are reading Tablet!
Joan

I am in the middle of making this recipe for the onion confit that goes with the brisket and got up to the sugar part. No sugar amount is mentioned in the recipe!

Can someone advise???

thanks for your purchase and when you have hundreds of websites I would end up being definitley interested. tell me what you believe when this gig is completed and that we can definitley work out something

I’ve said that least 1292102 times. The problem this like that is they are just too compilcated for the average bird, if you know what I mean

2000

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Brisket Power

Searching for ways to attract young Jews, a Boston group asked some chefs to reinvent traditional Jewish dishes. Never underestimate the ability of good food to attract a crowd.

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