Tablet Magazine

How a South African Dish Became a Staple of the IDF

Poyke is perfect for cookouts and campfires—and for hungry soldiers on the front line

When I was serving as a tank commander in the IDF in 2016, our tanks became our homes—our kitchens, bedrooms, bathrooms, and living rooms. At night we found whatever warm corner we could and huddled there in a sleeping bag until we drifted off to sleep. On warmer nights, we slept on top of the turret, nearly rolling off and falling to the ground as we dreamed of easier days. In the mornings, we dumped tuna, chocolate spread, and halva unceremoniously between two pieces of stale bread and called it breakfast. One weekend, my platoon was “voluntold” to stay in the field to guard our equipment, while the other platoons returned to base. There were 16 glorious hours in which we could breathe and decompress from the week. The commanders returned our cell phones and we caught up with loved ones, reassuring them that we were being fed enough and changing our socks frequently. Saturday night marked the end of our break. We returned to reality in gloom and anxiety, wondering what trials the new week would bring. I prepared to grit my teeth and continue onward, just trying to make it through, when my commander pulled me aside. “You’re going to base. Pull whatever looks good from the pantry and come back with a poyke pot and a guitar,” he said to me, smiling softly as he started his stopwatch. “You have 20 minutes, good luck.” We were going to make poyke, a popular meal cooked over a campfire that is often eaten in the IDF. I tried to recall what ingredients my friends had stuffed into my pack the year prior, when we made poyke after we hiked from our kibbutz to the Banias waterfall in the Golan Heights. I returned from the base with vegetables, rice, a bottle of Coke, and the Israeli equivalent of Slim-Jims. The guitar on my back made it in one piece, and the heavy cast iron pot showed no damage from the numerous times I’d dropped it on the way. We split off into groups. Two of us pulled nails from the wooden pallets that our ammunition had been stored on and began to build the fire. I chopped onions, carrots, and potatoes with my dirty Leatherman. Someone had grabbed the guitar already and was plucking out a familiar Meir Banai tune, our 12 tanks silhouetted behind him. We hoisted the pot into the fire, resting it on a bed of glowing embers. A glug of oil and our crudely cut vegetables came next. The vegetables blackened and turned bitter, scorched by the intense heat, but it was dark out and we would only realize our mistake later. Meat sizzled and hissed against the hot metal as its fat rendered out. I slashed through the commercial-sized sack of rice and we dumped it in, along with water and the entire liter-and-a-half of Coke. With the grace of great chefs, we spilled food and spices everywhere, throwing up orange sparks as debris landed in the flames. We poked a long stick through the handle of the lid, occasionally lifting it off to stir our poyke—though others are adamant about not stirring poyke. ...

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This Week’s Recipe

Ghoribiya (Egyptian Butter Cookies)

So many cultures have their version of ghoribiya, shortbread-like butter cookies sometimes made with crushed almonds, which literally melt in your mouth. Read here for Joan Nathan’s recipe for ghoribiya from her latest book My Life in Recipes: Food, Family, and Memories.

Explore all our recipes here.

Encyclopedia

dairy resturants

[ˈdɛ-ri-ˈrɛs-tə-ˌrɑnts] noun

Kosher eateries that serve anything that’s not fleishig (meat)—including vegetarian fare and fish dishes, everything from borscht to kasha v...

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Joan Knows Best

Everyone says their mom is the best cook, but when your mom is Joan Nathan, cooking looks a little bit different. Join Joan Nathan and her son, David Henry Gerson, for a video series covering Joan’s favorite Shabbat dinner recipes with a seasonal twist.

Joan Nathan is Tablet Magazine’s food columnist and the author of 10 cookbooks including King Solomon’s Table: a Culinary Exploration of Jewish Cooking from Around the World.

Perfect Pita

Joan Knows Best: The best way to make the ancient bread in your modern kitchen—thanks to a tip from chef Michael Solomonov

Shake Up Brunch With Shakshuka

Joan Knows Best: The best way to make this popular tomato-and-egg dish—with some help from Israeli chef Erez Komarovsky

The Pleasure of Pletzel

Joan Knows Best: The best way to make this Eastern European flatbread—with some advice from food writer and radio host Arthur Schwartz

Alon Shaya Expands to Las Vegas

With established restaurants in Louisiana and Denver, Chef Alon Shaya is now expanding to Nevada. Safta 1964 is the prequel to Chef Alon Shaya’s Michelin-recognized Safta restaurant (located in Denver). It debuts April 4 as a culinary residency at Wynn Las Vegas.

Read here for Tablet’s stories by, and about Chef Alon Shaya.

100 Foods and Beyond

Check out Tablet’s book The 100 Most Jewish Foods: A Highly Debatable List, and learn the stories behind iconic Jewish dishes. Argue with your friends about what we left out. And if you get hungry, we’ve included 60 recipes, too. And then there’s more...

Play the Jewish Foods Memory Game with your kids. Match up doubles of chicken soup, or borscht, or kreplach, and work up their appetite in the process.

Or try the 500-piece 100 Foods circular puzzle, and set the perfect table filled with your favorite Jewish foods.

Or check out this sticker book, featuring the tastiest items from 100 Most Jewish Foods. Put your favorite stickers on your laptop, your notebook, or your refrigerator.

You can buy all the merchandise, plus The Newish Jewish Encyclopedia, edited by the hosts of Tablet’s Unorthodox podcast, by clicking here.

A Plant-Based Quandary

Muslims, Jews, and Catholics wrestle with the religious implications of fake meat

PLNT Burger is a restaurant that offers plant-based alternatives to all-American favorites like burgers and shakes—all 100% kosher and halal. The first restaurant opened in Silver Spring, Maryland, 2019, and has expanded to 14 locations spanning from northern Virginia to Boston. The overarching philosophy, said co-founder Seth Goldman, is an effort to make food accessible to the widest possible cross section of people, regardless of their dietary choices—whether religious, medical, or ethical in nature. Despite some quibbles and caveats, for people of many faiths, plant-based meat and dairy substitutes complement their practices around food and diet by driving intentionality, to change the world by making what his wife and co-founder, Julie Farkas, calls “little changes, every day.” Veganism and vegetarianism are increasingly accepted by the American mainstream, whether it’s out of concern for the environment and animals, or for their own health, and people of various faith traditions with dietary restrictions are embracing the trend. While plant-based meat substitutes mean Jews, Muslims, and even some Christians might now enjoy a guilt-free cheeseburger or slice of (mushroom) bacon, there are those who see such alternatives as potentially problematic workarounds. Other religions have their sanctioned alternatives to off-limit substances—coffee substitutes for Latter-day Saints, capybara instead of fish on Fridays for Catholics in Latin America—but plant-based meat can present something of a different challenge for many religious traditions: What if it’s too close to the real thing? When Goldman and Farkas sat down with me at one of their New York City restaurants over a chocolate oat milkshake, they told me about the “very Jewish ethos” behind their vegan restaurant, where ethically sourced menu options bring vegans, eco-warriors, and rabbis together. And PLNT Burger definitely feels inclusive. Goldman and Farkas are greeted warmly by the staff when they arrive at the restaurant, but it’s almost possible to miss because the staff greets everyone warmly. Cheerful young men behind the counter coach me through the byzantine customization options as I place my order on the touch-screen menu (the ability to individualize is part of the founders’ philosophy of being all things to all people). I’m there at the tail end of the lunch rush, but their energy and enthusiasm don’t seem to have flagged. “We get people from all over,” I hear a server remark over the multilingual conversational din. “Yeah, no meat!” he responds to another customer inquiry. “Tastes just like the real thing!” ...

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A lot of Jewish food’s appeal, I have found, has more to do with fond memories of growing up than the food itself. Your early sensations are the ones that stay with you. You similarly always remember your first kiss. Technically speaking it probably wasn’t your best kiss, but it is the one that gave you the taste.

How do you hummus?

With the original recipe dating all the back to the 13th century, hummus has become quite possibly the most popular middle eastern dish of our time.

It’s been called a peacemaker, and has been the subject of lots of controversy. Whether it’s your entire meal, or a dip for your vegetables, there are so many opinions, and stories to share about our delectible dish.

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